Barcelona Christmas Markets

Since 1786, the square in front of Barcelona Cathedral has filled with Christmas stalls around the feast of Santa Llúcia on December 13. Families come to shop for their nativity scene: tiny clay figures, moss, cork mountains and little barns, plus the caganer, a crouching figure with his trousers down who hides in every Catalan nativity.

It is also where locals buy their Caga Tió, the smiling log in a red hat that kids feed all December, then beat with sticks on Christmas Eve, singing, until it "poops" out sweets. A giant Tió in front of the cathedral lets kids try it for themselves.

This fair began in 1962, when the Santa Llúcia fair by the cathedral ran out of room and a group of artisans set up beside Gaudí's basilica instead. About a hundred wooden stalls now ring the square in front of the Passion facade.

For kids, the fun is spotting the things Catalan homes fill up with in December: rows of Caga Tió logs with painted faces, tiny caganer figures for the nativity scene, and Christmas trees piled high, all under the basilica's towers. Stalls frying churros keep everyone going.

Since 1877, Barcelona families have come here to shop for Reis. In Catalonia the big present day is January 6, when the Three Kings (Reis) leave gifts overnight, and this fair is named after them. Two long rows of stalls line Gran Via, selling toys, sweets, decorations and small gifts.

For kids it is a chance to pick out a little something of their own, or to spot what might end up in the Kings' sacks. Look for carbó, black sugar candy made to look like coal, which the Kings jokingly leave for naughty children, and for stalls frying fresh xurros to dunk in thick hot chocolate.

Every Christmas the old harbor turns into a waterfront fair: wooden stalls and lights along Moll de la Fusta, a 65-meter Ferris wheel turning over the boats, and a synthetic ice rink where kids can skate without real ice.

What sets it apart from the city's other fairs is the sea. Historic ships open their decks, the old harbor cable-car tower lights up at night, and kids have posted letters to the Three Kings from the Santa Eulàlia schooner. Little ones mostly head for the old-fashioned carousel and the Christmas train, with Father Christmas waving from the front carriage.